Bethlehem's Christmas Tree Lighting Lights Up Once Again Since the Start of the Gaza War
For two years amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is believed to be where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.
However, following a recent truce, this sacred city determined that now the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the lighting of its customary, giant Christmas tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured a bad two years of silence; no holiday, no employment, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism had fallen to zero."
The mayor accepts that the decision to restart festivities was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – which affects members of the small Christian population, who often have relatives to Bethlehem.
"Some may say it's not appropriate and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed this constituted the right thing to take since the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This is a beacon of hope for us."
A Glimmer of Festivity Returns
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies before the tree hung with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of international visitors.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn the streets and there are signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where it all started, so this is where we can convey the message globally about what really Christmas should be about. And this year, if the season is calm, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to illuminate Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she states.
"I hope many visitors will soon come back because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is that there are no long lines – one can visit and see more things. When I came before you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."
For now, the souvenir stores dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the Gaza war, it was typically packed with people.
"Bethlehem is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," laments one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back like before: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received only partial wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says they are retaining the funds because the Authority provides financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The authority – which has been under international pressure to make reforms – claims it has recently changed its social welfare system.
A Modest Christmas Season
The grim economic outlook means that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday after one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes lately many families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "An individual wishing to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or similar, he doesn't have the money to expend for this celebration."
Prayers for Calm and Recovery
Within the grotto beneath the church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, bending down by a silver star which marks the location where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.
Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents state they are hoping for tranquility – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be where Christmas started.